Back in 2013, restauranteurs Fanny and David Rolland locked down 10,300 square feet of 4th and Spring’s newly restored El Dorado building, a gorgeous art-nouveau style landmark that was once at the epicenter of the Old Bank district’s hustle and bustle. Clearly, the duo had larger-than-life plans.
Last month, they officially unveiled their pièce de résistance, French import Le Petit Paris, a sprawling two-story brasserie and bistro that transports its patrons straight to Paris.
This is a place where you eat and linger and stare and explore, because it is a veritable labyrinth of pomp. Every corner turned reveals a garnish, a lit-up bar counter, a gold-accented column, a beveled mirror, and plenty of plush red seating. For a standard size dining area, all this might be overwhelming and a little excessive, but man, is this restaurant big— bigger than Bottega Louie! The grand ballroom floor and mezzanine combined boast 300 seats, two full bars, an outdoor patio, and a coming-soon retail store.
Chefs Grellier Baptiste and Jeremie Cazes, who both hail from Cannes, have come up with a menu that pairs classic French fare with modern American dishes.
For dinner, we started with bread, sourced from Pitchoun Bakery just a few blocks down, and a small sampling of French toast, caramelized strawberry, and rich, house-made duck foie gras. The Burgundy escargots were served in a cast-iron dish, piping hot and perfectly garlicky. The heirloom tomato salad came topped with creamy burrata cheese, basil, and a pesto drizzle. It was a refreshing appetizer, and a nice little interlude from all the buttered livers and snails we had been scarfing down.
The signature salad, which consists of potatoes, poached egg, and three different types of meat (seriously, three?!), is a bit of a misnomer. It’s definitely way more meal than salad.
The standout main course dishes were the rack of lamb with mashed potatoes, and the pappardelle flat pasta. The lamb, which was roasted in thyme, was tender and perfectly cooked, and the pasta came topped with fresh truffles (yasss) and a creamy sauce that wasn’t too overpowering.
While we can only vouch for the quality of the dinner menu, Le Petit Paris also offers up a boozy brunch menu, serving favorites such as crepes and eggs benedict alongside mimosas and Bloody Mary’s. Lots of buzzy restaurants and bars have been opening their doors in many a historic landmark during downtown’s ongoing renovation boom, but with its around-the-clock menu offerings and a space fit for literally every occasion, expect Le Petit Paris to be a perennial go-to spot.